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Kenya Just Put A Government Stamp On A Nigerian Woman's Modelling Project

Kenya Just Put A Government Stamp On A Nigerian Woman's Modelling Project

Fashion

Kenya's Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife has formally recognised Africa's Next Supermodel and the African Fashion Week project, both founded by the Nigerian fashion entrepreneur Joan Okorodudu. The recognition was announced in Nairobi and is framed around fashion, tourism, culture and opportunities for young people in the creative sector.

A government ministry in one African country formally acknowledging a private competition founded by a citizen of another is not a common event, and the detail of which ministry did it is the most revealing part.

fashion runway model backstage africa
fashion runway model backstage africa Photograph by Gbenga Onalaja via Unsplash.

Tourism, not culture

The recognition came from Tourism and Wildlife. Not from a culture ministry, not from trade, not from youth affairs.

That placement tells you exactly how Kenya is valuing this. A modelling competition that stages events in Nairobi brings in international scouts, agency representatives, photographers and media, all of whom book hotels, hire vehicles and eat in restaurants. Fashion weeks are, from a treasury's point of view, a category of business tourism with better photographs than a conference.

The comparison worth making. Nigeria's fashion sector has spent years asking for recognition as a cultural export. Kenya has looked at the same activity and classified it as tourism, which is a category that already has budget lines, marketing spend and a ministry with a reason to promote it.

Who Okorodudu is

Okorodudu represented Nigeria at the Olympics and was first runner-up at the Miss Nigeria pageant in 1981. She founded ISIS Models Africa and subsequently Africa's Next Supermodel, which has been running for around fourteen years scouting and developing models from across the continent. She has also received a United States Presidential Lifetime Achievement award.

The competition has operated across multiple African countries rather than staying in Nigeria, and it has crowned winners from outside Nigeria, including from Kenya and South Sudan. That continental spread is precisely why a Kenyan ministry can associate itself with it without it looking like the endorsement of a foreign commercial venture.

What a modelling pipeline is actually worth

The economics of this are frequently misunderstood in Nigeria, where the conversation about models tends to be about glamour rather than about export earnings.

A working model signed to an international agency is, in balance of payments terms, a service exporter. The work is performed abroad, paid in foreign currency, and the earnings substantially return home. The same is true of the photographers, stylists and agents around them. It is a small sector by revenue and an efficient one by foreign exchange generated per person employed.

The bottleneck has never been talent. It is discovery and representation: getting a young person in Enugu or Kisumu in front of somebody who books for Paris, and then handling the contract properly when it happens. That is the entire function of a scouting operation, and it is why a competition that has run for fourteen years matters more than one that ran for two.

Fourteen years is the real credential. Anybody can hold a fashion event once. The value is in an agency that scouts return to because it was there last year.

What Nigeria could take from this

Nigerian fashion has had an unusually strong run internationally, and the domestic policy response has been close to nothing. There is no equivalent recognition, no tourism classification, and no coordinated effort to bring international buyers and scouts to Lagos on a predictable annual calendar.

Lagos hosts multiple fashion weeks, which is part of the problem rather than evidence of health. Several competing events across the year fragment the audience that matters, which is the small number of international buyers and agency scouts who will make one trip. One consolidated week with government tourism backing would be worth more to Nigerian designers than three separate ones without it.

The thing to notice

A Nigerian built a pan-African institution over fourteen years, and the first government to formally recognise it was not Nigeria's.

That is not a complaint about Kenya, which has done something sensible and self-interested. It is an observation about how Nigerian creative exports are treated at home: celebrated when they succeed abroad, and left entirely to private effort until they do.

Reporting: The Sun Nigeria, Vanguard, The EastAfrican, The Guardian Nigeria and BusinessDay.

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