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The EU Is Backing A Green Push At Nigeria Fashion Week

The EU Is Backing A Green Push At Nigeria Fashion Week

Fashion

The European Union and Nigeria Fashion Week have announced a partnership on green and sustainable initiatives for this year's edition, backing the event's push toward a greener industry.

textile fabric workshop tailoring hands
textile fabric workshop tailoring hands Photograph by Collab Media via Unsplash.

Nigeria's actual place in the fashion supply chain

Mostly at the end of it. Nigeria is one of the world's largest destinations for used clothing, much of which arrives in bales, is sorted in markets like Katangua in Lagos, and the unsellable remainder of which goes to landfill or is burned. Any serious sustainability conversation here starts with that, not with organic cotton on a catwalk.

Where the environmental cost sitsVisible at a fashion week?
Imported second-hand balesNo
Textile dyeing and water useRarely
Generator-powered productionNever mentioned
Designer sampling and offcutsSometimes

The fourth row is the one runway sustainability programmes usually address.

Why the EU is involved. Europe is where a great deal of the used clothing originates, and European regulation on textile waste and extended producer responsibility is tightening. Partnerships of this kind are partly development funding and partly the exporting end of the chain taking an interest in what happens at the receiving end, which is a reasonable thing for it to do.

What would make it more than a panel

Nigeria's fashion industry runs on diesel. Any sustainability programme that cannot say something about power is decorating the problem.

Three things would be measurable within a year: a published count of how much textile waste the event itself generates, a named local mill or dyehouse with funded process changes, and support for the tailors and artisans who already do the most sustainable thing in the industry, which is making one garment at a time to fit one person.

The context it lands in

A Nigerian designer said last week that international models skip Lagos over payment, security and infrastructure, and another house chose to show in New York instead. An EU partnership brings credibility and money to a Nigerian platform at exactly the point where Nigerian platforms are struggling to hold their own talent. That is worth something regardless of what the green programme delivers.

Reporting: The Nation and Independent Newspaper Nigeria.

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